Dusseldorf The machine spins threads from a mass of vegetable proteins, with a diameter of 0.2 millimeters thinner than twine. Around 250 fibers are bundled on a rotating spool like muscle strands and combined with vegetable fats. The result is red and white marbled imitation meat that can hardly be distinguished from the animal original in terms of appearance and texture.
“For the first time, we are reproducing meat fiber by fiber using proven and easily scalable technologies from the textile industry,” explains David Schmelzeisen, 32, a doctor of materials science and co-founder of Project Eaden. For the first time, Berliner Food-Tech is giving the Handelsblatt an insight into its technology that was previously reserved for investors.
The bundles of spun threads of plant proteins are said to create the bite that humans are conditioned to feel. Project Eaden wants to take plant-based meat substitutes to a new level, with the market launch scheduled for early 2024 at the latest. Investor and veggie meat pioneer Godo Röben, ex-manager of Rügenwalder Mühle, speaks of a “groundbreaking project”.
Fiber technology should help plant meat to achieve a breakthrough
Meat consumption has been falling in Germany for years – from 62.8 kilos per capita in 2011 to 55 kilos in 2021. This is shown by figures from the Federal Statistical Office. Animal welfare, climate and environmental protection and health are becoming more and more important. So far, however, the big breakthrough of plant-based meat substitutes has not materialized. In 2021, meat products were manufactured in Germany for 35.6 billion euros – around 80 times the value of meat substitutes.
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Veggie meat is often even more expensive. Consumers also often complain about the rubbery consistency of tofu schnitzel or seitan nuggets. Large cuts of meat with a muscular structure such as steak have so far been difficult to imitate. Plant-based meat alternatives are mostly produced in the so-called extruder: Under high pressure and temperature, viscous masses are conveyed over a screw and pressed through small openings.
“The result is often a tough consistency like bread dough,” says Jan Wilmking, who set up Project Eaden with Mymuesli founder Hubertus Bessau. “The heat and high pressure during extrusion also create unwanted side-flavors ranging from very sweet to bitter,” explains the 43-year-old, who previously worked at McKinsey and Zalando. At the fashion retailer he met the materials scientist Schmelzeisen.
Well-known investors increase seed round to ten million euros
“The taste, texture and appearance of plant-based meat substitutes have not been convincing so far,” agrees Carl Fritjofsson, general partner at investor Creandum. Project Eaden therefore has the potential to fundamentally change the industry. Creandum led the high seed round, which raised eight million euros in June. These include well-known investors such as Food Labs, Shio Capital, Trellis Road and business angels such as Röben. In December, Food Labs and Magnetic increased their investment by 2.1 million euros.
“The proven fiber technology, which we have adapted for the first time to foods made from edible protein fibers, has already revolutionized the textile industry, aerospace and implant medicine,” explains Schmelzeisen. The processes have been optimized over decades for low costs, high throughput and flexible use.
David Schmelzeisen, Hubertus Bessau and Jan Wilmking (from left) want to use fiber technology from the textile industry to help plant-based meat substitutes achieve a breakthrough.
“We can design the fibers very precisely and individually in terms of elasticity, water retention and strength,” explains Wilmking. The founders do not reveal many details, only: The consistency of the protein mass varies between honey, set yoghurt and dough. The fibers are usually spun at room temperature. Up to 80 degrees are required to cross-link individual components with plant connective tissue, for example.
The team of textile experts, food technologists and chefs worked on the imitation steak for more than a year. The meat soon looked deceptively real. “But when we fried the first prototypes in the pan, they melted,” says Wilmking. “The next steaks tasted like dry boiled fillet.” Today, a crispy crust is possible and the plant steak remains juicy on the inside, they demonstrate in the video.
>> Read here: Head of the Rügenwalder Mühle: “We also want to be a pioneer in cultivated meat”
In February, the 20-strong team in Berlin moves into its own technical center with 450 square meters of laboratory, production and kitchen. Special machine builders produced larger machines for this. “We make all the prototypes ourselves. We want to be fast.”
Market launch of the plant steak by early 2024
Because at the end of this year or the beginning of next year, the Berliners want to launch their spun plant steak as their own brand. It is unclear whether initially in restaurants or online shops. “Our product should taste better, but cost less than previous meat substitutes,” is the ambitious announcement. In the medium term, in addition to Germany, the founders want to look at large, dynamic meat markets such as Great Britain and the USA.
The global market for plant-based meat substitutes could grow from $4.2 billion in 2021 to as much as $118 billion in 2030, Bloomberg predicts. According to Wilmking, the example of leather shows how quickly animal materials can be replaced by good imitations.
Project Eaden isn’t the only food tech looking to improve the texture and acceptability of plant-based steak. The competition includes Juicy Marbels from Slovenia and Novameat from Spain. They use 3D printing, as does Redefine Meat, the Israeli food tech that has raised more than $170 million and is already selling printed steaks. However, the founders of Project Eaden consider 3D printing to be unsuitable for an optimal meat structure.
Israeli food tech Redefine Meat uses 3D printing to produce steak. The products are already being marketed in Europe.
(Photo: Reuters)
In the USA, Tender Foods is working on plant fibers and tendons in a similar way to Project Eaden, and researchers from Harvard are behind it. “Recreating the complex texture and mouthfeel of whole cuts of meat such as steak is a major challenge,” explains Seren Kell, Science and Technology Manager at the Good Food Institute Europe. “Innovations like fiber spinning play a crucial role in overcoming these obstacles.”
The Berlin founders are not worried that textile or food companies will quickly copy their method: “It’s not that easy to replicate, especially since we have central processes protected.” They want to keep product development and production in their own hands. In the future, they can also imagine licensing, similar to Coca-Cola.
Initially, Project Eaden focuses on beef substitutes. Breeding and keeping cows is considered to be particularly harmful to the climate. Other types of meat can be spun just as easily as imitation meat with different taste levels on the outside and inside. In addition to plant-based raw materials, other materials are also conceivable – such as meat cells grown in the laboratory, says Schmelzeisen: “With our spinning method, completely new foods can be created.”
More: Proteins from the fermentation tank – This is how start-ups want to replace cheese and meat