Castle of Reschio in Italy

In beautiful Umbria, the green heart of Italy, I discover what is probably the most beautiful fort I have ever seen in my life on a slight hill. I was seldom as speechless as in this enchanted place. The old walls of the Castello di Reschio have been standing since 1050. Green trees, cypresses and pines surround the old walls, which have already accommodated numerous guests.

Feeling a bit underdressed in my white sneakers, I wish for a heavy shield and armor as I walk down the driveway. But my imagination runs away with me again. The interior surprises – in a very modern and entrepreneurial way.

Castello di Reschio: When entrepreneurial courage is rewarded

stylish. Lovingly. Full of shine and glory. These words burn after the first, the second and the many other impressions that I take with me from this property. Luckily, Count Antonio Bolza, the current owner of the Castello, discovered the property in 1994. It was actually a coincidence, but I don’t believe in chance encounters. The then country castle ruins and surrounding buildings were looking for an owner and magically attracted Count Antonio. He created an infrastructure out of nothing, out of untouched land and crumbling ruins.

Together with his son Count Benedikt, he lovingly renovated the dilapidated stables, scattered medieval farmhouses and the fort over the past 20 years. Today, wealthy families from all over the world live in the resulting villas. Some of them are available for renters. The fort serves as a family home and guest accommodation.

Umbria has long been known as the poorhouse of Italy. Presumably only the hills themselves know what happened in the hills of Reschio. Thanks to an ancient figure discovered on the upper slopes of Reschio, we at least know that the Etruscans ruled here. The name Reschio itself probably derives from Resculum, the Latin name for fortress.

Today this country is home to what is probably the most beautiful jewel in southern Europe: the Hotel Castello di Reschio, where I am staying for a few days.

The term “hotel” is inappropriate. Just too shy. This place feels like home, although I’ve never touched this Mediterranean soil before. Count Antonio originally designed the country house as his own family center. The generous dimensions tempted him to also accommodate guests. People from all over the world are invited to experience the traditional values.

To this day, the Count and his family use the property themselves. He rides his horses from the two in-house riding stables and greets everyone who meets him as a friend of the house. I didn’t expect so much closeness behind thick walls. It touches me as much as every single space I explore.

This flair is probably due to the fact that the fort and its operations are designed as a family business. As a renowned architect, Count Benedikt personally takes care of the listed buildings from design to implementation and designs the matching furniture. Who knows better which piece is in good hands in which place than a talented family member, the owner? By the way: the exquisite pieces of furniture and lamps can also be purchased under the Benedikt Bolza Design label.

I discover places that are typical for old country castles, which are optimally renovated and used for today’s events. So there are two connected courtyards within the walls, which were probably used for social gatherings in the past. Today one of them is encased in glass and functions as a noble palm courtyard. A place for quiet hours and relaxation with a freshly brewed espresso, while the other is the scene of concerts, lectures and artistic events thanks to perfect acoustics.

Another special place is the bath house. A modern spa in ancient Roman style is perfect for a soothing break in the old wine cellar of the castle. The antique stone walls dampen the light pleasantly. I dive into the saltwater pool and forget the hectic pace of my journey. In the traditional sauna made of Mediterranean oak, all thoughts of the next day fall away by themselves. Promised!

Nothing is left to chance. For a fleeting moment I thought that the initials embroidered on the pillows, towels and blankets meant “CKR” – which is my name. Of course they stand for Castello di Reschio. So I seem to belong here. The rooms are all very individually furnished with specially designed furniture and antiques. Despite, or perhaps because of the muted choice of colors, the rooms exude a very inviting, comfortable flair. Certainly also due to the fact that no artificial light sources are used where they are not absolutely necessary.

In any case, I feel very comfortable in my spacious suite. The door is seven centimeters thick, so that no disturbing noise, no noise penetrates the interior. I sleep here like in the quiet of a mountain monastery, only much more comfortably.

When the service team knows what I need before I know it

What is the service like behind the old castle walls? Warm and accommodating! After lunch I would like to go on an excursion into the world of Dolce Vita, so go to my room on time. I order my espresso and ask that it be served within the next ten minutes. Knowing full well that ten minutes in Italy can sometimes take 30 minutes, I reserve a shuttle right away. The employee looks at me with a mischievous smile and calls out to me in a friendly manner: “But Mr. Rath. Your car will be ready and waiting for you whenever you are ready.” That’s how world-class service works! It’s almost like I’m not in a hotel, but at home. Except that the walls are much thicker and the climate is much milder.

By the way, I taste the Dolce Vita in the truest sense of the word in the restaurants and bars of the property. To start the day, I recommend an early breakfast in the Ristorante Al Castello on the terrace. This is in the west wing and offers a great view over the hilly, often foggy landscape.

I enjoy the classic Italian cuisine and ambience in the Ristorante “Alle Secuderie”. My homemade stone oven pizza, topped with fresh vegetables and spicy cheese, tastes just great! The fresh vegetables come from our own garden. But what am I saying, there are whole garden landscapes! In recent years, the Bolzas have specialized in organic farming without any artificial additives. On my forays into the property I pass berry bushes, fruit trees and various types of vegetables.

Of course, the olive groves typical of Italy are not missing either. The grapes for the in-house, fine wines grow on the cultivated Sangiovese, Ciliegolo, Cesanese and Merlot vines. From the gardens of the adjoining villas, I recognize the preferences of the owners: Individuality is not only a priority in the interior, but also lived in the nature around the houses. Your own orchard? Own winegrowing? A herb garden? The wishes of the homeowners are lovingly embedded in the landscape and implemented.

Conclusion: The love for the house swings through every wall

I know the Mandarins and Four Seasons of this world. All impressive houses, no question. But there is one thing that is not found in the textbook: inspired tradition. For some, a sense of tradition and lived values ​​may have a dusty image. For me, it is precisely these aspects that make a stay an experience that I will remember for a long time. Castello di Reschio is a place that enchants, teaches humility and also invites you to go horseback riding. Even if you’re actually afraid of horses.

Rath’s Voyage Rating (current rating in bold):
1. Explicit Travel Warning
2. Better than under the bridge
3. So-so, not oh, là là
4. Complaining at a high level
5. If only it were always like this
6. Great cinema
7. My 7th star (which doesn’t actually exist) is now called “Di Reschio”

About the author: As a former grand hotelier and operator of a travel platform, Carsten K. Rath is a professional globetrotter. He travels to all the hotels he writes about for the Handelsblatt on his own account. Rath is the source of ideas for the ranking “The 101 best hotels in Germany”, whose partners include the Handelsblatt.

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