I’m on my way to Interlaken, the tourist hub in the Bernese Oberland and the charming region between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz. Interlaken gets its name from this location at an altitude of 569 meters between the two lakes (Latin: inter lacus). The first hotel and the first guests were here as early as the 14th century, including later illustrious celebrities such as Lord Byron, Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe.
My hotel for the next few days, the Grandhotel Victoria-Jungfrau Hotel & Spa, is situated, like in a picture book, picturesquely embedded between the rivers and the lakes – at the foot of the – still – grandiose, year-round snow-covered Jungfrau massif.
The Victoria-Jungfrau is located on the Höheweg, a promenade street lined with luxurious houses, the boulevard of Interlaken, so to speak. The listed five-star hotel is a member of the neighboring hotels in the ranking “The 101 best hotels in Germany” and is now one of the best Swiss hotels.
I get out and am immediately taken by the incomparably beautiful, unobstructed view of the Jungfrau massif with its three peaks Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. In the huge, light-flooded hotel lobby, liveried servants, lavish flower arrangements and a ceiling that is so high that I have to crane my head back to look up impress me.
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Effortless elegance throughout
I like the mixture of style, elegance and generosity of yesteryear in contrast with modern luxury and comfort that can be felt everywhere. As soon as I enter, I sense a somehow effortless elegance that later continues throughout the house.
Today, the Victoria-Jungfrau belongs to the Michel Reybier Hospitality, along with the Bellevue Palace in Bern, the Eden au Lac in Zurich, the Crans Ambassador in Crans-Montana and now the Mont Cervin and the Monte Rosa in Zermatt. I was here in the hotel for the first time many years ago – as a speaker at a conference. Ever since Peter Kaempfer, grand seigneur of the hotel industry and long-standing director of the Parkhotel Weggis on Lake Lucerne, has been in charge here, the place has been running like never before and has its finger on the pulse of the times. It is regularly expanded and renovated.
The listed five-star hotel is now one of the best Swiss hotels.
(Photo: Victoria Virgin)
The former fine dining restaurant is now a classic French brasserie with an expanded super nice terrace. Here in “La Terrasse” there are authentic local dishes, over 600 wines with a focus on Switzerland and a modern, relaxed ambience.
A new gourmet restaurant will soon be added in autumn: “Radius by Stefan Beer”. The so-called “Z’Menu Vo Hie” (“Menu from here”) is then cooked exclusively with ingredients from local producers within a radius of 50 kilometers. I like the concept and also that the new gourmet restaurant will only have 30 to 40 seats. This promises optimal conditions for a very personal service.
The Italian “Ristorante e Pizzeria Sapori” is also special: I am impressed by the historic Art Nouveau hall from 1864. Antipasti, more than two dozen pizzas from the wood-fired oven and classic Italian dishes are served in this grandiose atmosphere. Everything here is uncomplicated and authentically Italian. When the weather is nice, you can sit outside, right on Interlaken’s promenade.
In the Sapori I meet Paula again, a service employee. She remembers the wine I had here two years ago and recommends the same one, only pointing out that the vintage has changed. Then she also introduces me to her lovely mum, who she brought here from Heidelberg and who now works with her here in the service department. It couldn’t be more familiar and at the same time more professional.
In the historic art nouveau hall from 1864, antipasti, wood-fired pizzas and classic Italian dishes are served.
(Photo: Victoria Virgin)
Speaking of service: throughout the house, it is impeccable, always discreet and dedicated to the guest – extremely amiable, open and communicative. Here in the hotel there is obviously no staff problem.
The next morning I’m sitting on the terrace at breakfast and once again enjoying the breathtakingly beautiful view of the mountains of the Bernese Highlands. Incidentally, the landscape here inspired JRR Tolkien to write his epic “Lord of the Rings”. I look up and am fascinated: Dozens of paragliders are floating elegantly and gracefully in the dark blue sky in front of the mountain flanks – the special winds make it particularly easy here. At some point they land on the deep green meadow in front of the hotel. The natural colors here in the Swiss high mountains, I realize that again, are simply richer and more radiant than anywhere else.
Incidentally, Interlaken is considered the adventure capital of Switzerland. Jumping off cliffs and bridges, white water rafting on raging rivers, canyoning in the gorges of the surrounding mountain valleys, glacier bungee jumping and much more: a lot is possible.
Wide range of food in the Bödeli old town district
I’m going to take it a little easier today and walk – you can easily explore Interlaken without a car – to the Bödeli. That’s the name of the medieval old town quarter of Interlaken. Here one restaurant and café follows the next. What strikes me in the little town is the colorful and interesting mix of people from different cultures: many Arabs, Japanese, Indians, Germans and Americans. And I like the wide range of food here in Interlaken, which is as multicultural as, for example, in Zurich’s Langstrasse.
Back at the hotel, I look forward to relaxing and exploring the spectacular 5,500 square meter spa at the Victoria-Jungfrau. The architectural centerpiece is the imposing, light-flooded indoor swimming pool, which spontaneously reminds me of Roman bathing culture. I am impressed by the monumental dimensions and by the omnipresent and magical mountain scenery through the large windows. And I notice how neat everything is.
At some point they land on the deep green meadow in front of the hotel.
(Photo: Carsten K. Rath)
At the end of an eventful stay in Interlaken, I sit in the bar on the pillared terrace in front of the hotel and look up at the snow-capped, imposing Jungfrau massif. The sun sets incredibly impressively behind the mountain peaks and I just think: What a beautiful place this is.
Insider tips:
Panorama: The Schynige Platte at 1967 meters above Interlaken. Nostalgic ride on the cog railway from Wilderswil. Magnificent panoramic view of the mountain triumvirate Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. Alpine garden with over 600 species of native flora.
Trail: The Thunersee panoramic circular route is 56 kilometers long.
Most beautiful bay: In picturesque Spiez on the western side of Lake Thun, palm trees grow on the picturesque promenade in the crescent-shaped bay thanks to the mild climate.
scenic mountain: Interlaken’s local mountain, the Harder Kulm (1322 m), can be reached in an eight-minute funicular ride. Magnificent panoramic view of lakes and mountains.
Rath’s Voyage Rating (current rating in bold):
1. Explicit Travel Warning
2. Better than under the bridge
3. So-so, not oh, là, là
4. Complaining at a high level
5. If only it were always like this
6. Great cinema
About the author: As a former grand hotelier and operator of the Travelgrand travel platform, Carsten K. Rath is a professional globetrotter. He travels to all the hotels he writes about for the Handelsblatt on his own account. Rath is the brain behind the ranking “The 101 best hotels in Germany”, whose partners include the Handelsblatt.
Carsten K. Rath, Rolf Westermann: The 101 best hotels in Germany.
Institute for Service and Leadership Excellence AG
521 pages
34.90 euros
ISBN: 978-3033088719
Rath is also the author of the book on the ranking. The next edition of the book will be published with the cooperation of the Handelsblatt at the end of November as part of the publication of the next ranking of the 101 best hotels in Germany.
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