Hotel & Spa Rogner Bad Blumau

“Your name is Hundertwasser, my water is a hundred degrees hot” – these were probably the first words that the two visionaries exchanged. It was the beginning of an extraordinary and, above all, colorful collaboration. The result is a unique hotel where I can feel Hundertwasser’s understanding of art up close and also find my own flow.

A concept full of colors in harmony with nature

Rarely have I experienced during a hotel stay how a building itself exudes joie de vivre. Normally it is the employees, the service staff and also the enthusiastic guests who bring a hotel to life. It’s different in Bad Blumau. The place is surrounded by rolling hills, summer green meadows and forests. The area looks sleepy. At first glance, it is not clear that I am about to visit one of the most artistic hotels.

After making my way through the lush green landscape, the first thing that strikes me is the golden dome of the main building. It gives the impression of driving straight into a fairytale castle. A pretty colorful one. The facade is pink and light blue in color and, true to the centenary, it is slightly crooked. Sorry, provided with harmoniously flowing forms. There are no corners and edges at Hundertwasser, it is precisely this philosophy that makes the works of art and buildings so unmistakable. Everything is in the river.

I live in the stone house suite with a direct connection to the huge thermal baths. My accommodation is furnished to a high standard. The solid wood furniture is comfortable and skilfully sets the scene for the colorful design elements such as a meadow-green chair and the yellow window frame. Even before I go to the extensive breakfast buffet, I strengthen myself with an organic tea.

You can also book comfortable rooms in the other buildings in the complex, the Stammhaus, Ziegelhaus or Kunsthaus. On my next visit I will choose the latter. The facade intentionally resembles the Kunsthaus in Vienna, the roof is grassy and somewhat reminiscent of the hobbit dwellings in Middle-earth. The only difference is that the Kunsthaus specializes in wellness.

Fire, Water, Air and Earth: A resort of the four elements

Speaking of wellness. The heart of the resort is the huge thermal baths. On around 420,000 square meters I immerse myself in a truly different world. The blue lagoon comes from a depth of around 3000 meters and is the strongest of the three healing springs in the thermal and volcanic region of Styria. In the open air, I enjoy the 37-degree warm, saline water while a light drizzle draws the other guests into the indoor areas.

It is a unique experience to enjoy the volcanic warmth almost floating in the water. The salt content of the water is 17.6 grams per liter – nobody will go under here. The whole area and the wonderful garden are designed according to the four elements of water, fire, air and earth.

It gets really fiery in summer when the fire poppies sprinkle natural dabs of color in the meadows. Fire baskets with blazing flames and the “Strombolino” volcano next to the Vulkania healing lake underline the element of fire. I feel very close to the element of earth on the comfortable seating and lounger stones, while at the same time I listen to the air that makes the leaves on the trees rustle.

The service is in line with the architectural focus of the house – in the flow. At least almost. When things are “on time” and according to a plan, then I generally like that. But when the staff at reception remind me at 10:20 a.m. that the breakfast buffet closes at 10:30 a.m. sharp, it creates stress for me. So I hurry to the buffet to at least secure a small plate full of regional delicacies. Because just a few minutes before the official closing time, the buffet is being frantically dismantled.

Why? This does not open up to me. I would like more generosity here. A rushed start to the day doesn’t have to be, especially since the buffet is actually very well stocked.

In general, all employees are very friendly and courteous to me. I observe how they take care of the little guests in particular, so that the adults can look around in peace or, for example, check in.

Conclusion: An ascending oasis for connoisseurs

The combination of architectural art, the healing environment of natural springs and closeness to nature is unique and inspiring. The Hotel & Spa Rogner Blumau shows once again how entrepreneurial courage and the joy of creating something new pay off.

Travel Checklist:
Getting there: By plane to Graz, then by car about 60 kilometers. A transfer from Graz or Vienna can be booked 48 hours in advance at the hotel.
Food: Try grilled organic steak in the “Genussreich” restaurant.
Excursion tip: In the neighboring town of Bierbaum you will discover an old farm, the Schwalbenhof, which sells Styrian oil, makes its own yoghurt and also offers home-made sausages. By the way, you can also jog all the way to Bierbaum.

Rath’s Voyage Rating (current rating in bold):

1. Explicit Travel Warning
2. Better than under the bridge
3. So-so, not oh, là, là
4. Complaining at a high level
5. If only it were always like this
6. Great cinema

About the author: As a former grand hotelier and operator of the Travelgrand.ch travel platform, Carsten K. Rath is a professional globetrotter. He travels to all the hotels he writes about for the Handelsblatt on his own account. Rath is the brain behind the ranking “The 101 best hotels in Germany”, whose partners include the Handelsblatt.