Luxury hotels in Thailand: tradition meets modernity

Arriving at Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok usually means standing in line, waiting and starting to search for a taxi. But this time it’s different. The driver is already waiting for me in the arrivals hall. I am welcomed in the limousine with cold drinks, snacks and WiFi. With relatively few traffic jams, we make it to the center of the metropolis within 45 minutes.

The variety of gastronomy, the beautiful location right on the riverbank and the facilities make the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok one of the most desirable hotels in the world. What makes the special difference for me is the naturalness with which attention is paid to the smallest details.

In just a few minutes, thanks to the cleaning by the three housekeepers, the room looks as if it could be made new – from the unfolded towels to the exchanged champagne cooler with fresh ice. The service staff is friendly, reserved and makes working on the more than 370 rooms seem like a breeze.

The selection and range of the breakfast buffet is fantastic. What surprises me, however, is that I am told at 10 a.m. that the buffet will close in half an hour. Unusual for a hotel of this class.

137 Pillars House: Where attention to detail is the order of the day

From the restaurant I can watch the longtail boats typical of the country on the Chao Phraya. This city hotel is located directly on the banks of the river that flows into the Gulf of Thailand in the south and from which Mae Nam Ping has its source. On this river, about 680 kilometers further north, is the second house that I visit on my trip through Thailand.

In addition to the architecture, the colonial furnishing style, framed black-and-white pictures and the names of the suites are reminiscent of the beginnings of the 137 Pillars House, which go back to the 19th century. The entire house is covered with old teak. Because of its nature, the finely grained wood is particularly well suited for the carvings with which almost all temples, some private houses and public facilities in northern Thailand are decorated. It is also the most important export wood in Southeast Asia and is crucial to the country’s prosperity.

In a conversation with the corporate general manager Anne Arrowsmith, I learn how important the raw material was for the hotel, which today belongs to the Small Luxury Hotels Collection (SLH). The main building once belonged to Louis Leonowens, teak merchant and son of Anna Leonowens, whose story provided the basis for the film “Anna and the King”.

For a hotel with only 30 rooms I find a really generous and excellent breakfast buffet. I cut off a slice of bread, give it to the cook and ask him to toast it. The chef brings a new slice of bread to the table, perfectly sliced ​​and then toasted, unlike mine. These attentions are not self-evident and speak for a service that I rarely experience.

And so it’s the little things at dinner that are remembered. One of the waitresses speaks to me, reminds me of yesterday’s conversation with her colleague and hands me a mosquito spray against the disturbing roommates.

The restaurant’s interior and exterior feel warm and intimate with wood paneling and chiffon-clad seating arrangements. A professional piano player in the center of the room adds to the tranquil atmosphere.

The menu shows a selection of freshly prepared dishes from Asian and European cuisine in the evening, as well as in the morning and at lunchtime. I am delighted with my choice, which is excellently prepared and just as seasoned: tuna with avocado, mango and fresh cress.

The geometric layout of the outdoor area contrasts pleasantly with the curved shapes and dark paneling of the interior. The pool is located on a huge green wall with plants. The old stock of trees, sun loungers and parasols offer guests a bit of shade in the blazing midday sun.

Rath’s travel rating (current rating in bold):

1. Explicit Travel Warning
2. Better than under the bridge
3. So-so, not oh, là, là
4. Complaining at a high level
5. If only it were always like this
6. Great cinema

Insider tips:

Elephant Nature Park Chiang Mai: Elephants, which were not only important workers in Southeast Asia but are deeply rooted in the culture and Buddhist religion, are now threatened with extinction. 80 years ago, around 100,000 Asian elephants lived in the country. Today that number has dropped to 3,000. And so, since 1996, the focus of Elephant Nature Park has been to strengthen the population and provide a sanctuary for rescued animals. The elephants live here in a species-appropriate way, are not tortured or paraded for the pleasure of the visitors. Guests can experience them here in a natural environment and learn a lot about the sensitive and highly intelligent pachyderms.

Visiting the Buddhist temples: There are tens of thousands of temples in Thailand. Gilded Buddha images, intricate decorations and a history stretching back in most cases to the 14th century draw many visitors each year. It is advisable to book one of the tours offered and learn more about one of the world’s largest religions.

Rafting and bike tours: For adventurous visitors, Bike Tour Asia offers customized and multi-day bike trips through northern Thailand. Anyone who likes it a little more action-packed will find the desired change with whitewater rafting on the Mae Taeng River.

About the author: As a former grand hotelier and operator of the Travelgrand.ch travel platform, Carsten K. Rath is a professional globetrotter. He travels to all the hotels he writes about for the Handelsblatt on his own account. Rath is the brain behind the ranking “The 101 best hotels in Germany”, whose partners include the Handelsblatt. Rath is also the author of the book on the ranking, co-authored by Michael Raschke (Handelsblatt).