As fantastic as it sounds, it’s actually true. My Tuscan dream begins less than half an hour’s drive from Florence-Peretola airport. In the midst of the olive groves and rolling hills there is an imposing, ocher-colored property whose impressively long history I can see at first glance. An extensive park and garden landscape encloses the Castello del Nero, which originally dates from the 12th century. The “COMO” hotel group manages more than 720 hectares here.
The COMO hotels are still largely unknown to us, but in my opinion one of the best hotel groups in the world. 80 percent of the guests are American and are particularly drawn to the original, historical ambience. In return, these guests are willing to spend more than $1,000 per night in a double room during peak season.
To my astonishment, however, the house also seems to live from group tourism. According to my observation, however, this was of a very special kind: A Dutch Ferrari group and a German Porsche group had chosen the Castello del Nero as the destination of their trip – at the same time, without knowing each other!
Asked for an engaging plan of the day, the very pleasant staff can offer me a variety of suggestions, ranging from a free shuttle bus for day trips to Florence and Siena, to cooking classes, seasonal truffle hunting, ice cream making, wine and olive tasting in the 12th-century cellar.
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Also on offer: tours of the vineyards, helicopter and balloon rides, two tennis courts, and trails that wind through the property and beyond its borders for hiking and biking. Finally there are the terraced gardens and the heated outdoor pool overlooking the beautiful countryside.
Where southern Europe is most beautiful: Carsten K. Rath in Bella Italia
My evening was reserved for a stay in the restaurant, or rather in the restaurants. On the terrace with a wonderful view over the cypresses there is what I would like to describe as fluid: the smell of roses, pines, lavender and herbs in the air creates a different attitude towards life.
Pasta al pomodoro or chianina steak
Located in the old stables, the Michelin-starred La Torre restaurant brings the raw ingredients and flavors of Tuscany to the table with refined, flavorful interpretations of traditional dishes. Olive oil from our own cultivation is added. The pampering is crowned with great wines. If the food was served hot to me, that would be great. A little pity!
Design pope Paola Navone brought a light, airy, almost casual aesthetic to the ambience.
(Photo: COMO/Castello del Nero)
The more casual La Taverna occupies the old kitchens with roaring fires and bar. Here I enjoy rustic Tuscan classics like pasta al pomodoro or Chianina steak. In the warmer months, the al fresco Pavilion Restaurant opens in the evenings and also serves lunch and poolside snacks.
No matter where I ate – you can feel the deep connection between the employees and the kitchen to this landscape. Right down to the waiter, everything seems genuine and natural, every offer is of the highest quality – but without chichi.
As was to be expected, the entire complex exudes a confident, aristocratic charm. Milan-based designer Paola Navone was allowed to bring a light, airy, almost casual aesthetic to the ambience. This results in moments of reduced luxury with no-frills white, grey, silver, watery blue and billowing white curtains. Traditional features such as wood-beamed ceilings and terracotta floor tiles are accented with more contemporary furniture from Italian trendsetters like Gervasoni. Just classic elegance.
In the historic walls: New and old times have also been cleverly combined in the bar area.
(Photo: COMO/Castello del Nero)
This special flair was suggested by the hotel manager. When it comes to taste, the Singaporean hotelier Christina Ong and her daughter Melissa take the same view as Oscar Wilde once did: simply be satisfied with the best. With the globally managed hotels and resorts of their COMO group (the name is made up of their initials CO and those of their daughter Melissa), the two women with an affinity for luxury define star hotels in a very contemporary way: reduction to the essentials, but the few of the finest . One looks in vain for swanky or even gold leaf in the Castello del Nero.
There are 50 rooms scattered throughout the main castle, as well as its outbuildings and courtyards – no two are alike. The 16 rooms in the castle, including suites with 18th-century frescoes and antiques, are the grandest.
The breakfast was, as expected: plain and simply exquisite. Everything from the finest to hand-picked and cleaned strawberries.
A real Garden of Eden full of roses and old olive trees awaits the guests in the vicinity of the house.
(Photo: Hotel Locanda Rossa)
We continue to the south of Tuscany – and this time only an hour’s drive from the capital. The Locanda Rossa is more for Europeans and therefore also for me.
I immediately fell in love with the landscape of the Maremma hills. Far away from the hustle and bustle of the city, the only thing here is to relax. Certainly also a reason why the elite of Roman society had their private houses built here. However, nobody could be seen – but certainly nobody would have made themselves known.
Locanda Rossa: A real Garden of Eden
The “Rosa Landhaus” keeps what the name promises: nice to charming – a gem. A real Garden of Eden full of roses and old olive trees straight out of a picture book. It should be 3800 copies! Simply picturesque. The small hotel complex of the Locanda Rossa has literally grown into a small hill. Rustic, yes – but the luxury hasn’t been forgotten either: tennis courts and two swimming pools speak for it.
The house is also on the ambitious path to a fifth star with its culinary offerings.
(Photo: Hotel Locanda Rosso)
The first glance at the property surprises me, because a strong, dark, rich oxblood red greets me. The Locanda Rossa is not a hotel in the traditional sense, but a carefully designed architectural landscape of rooms, suites and four detached villas. The entire property was restored with great attention to detail by the renowned architects Tommaso Zahl and Paolo Pejrone. The result is a mixture of traditional and modern style that conveys an elegant yet casual ambience. It’s hard to manage to create such an atmosphere – here it absolutely worked.
The menu varies according to the availability of locally produced products.
(Photo: Carsten K. Rath)
The interiors were personally and lovingly put together by the owners, so that a level of four stars seems fully justified. You are currently on the ambitious path to the fifth star. This certification will not be really difficult, because the Rossa can score even more – with the beaches of Chiarone, which are nearby, and the local Restorante La Dogana Capalbio in the Via Graticciaia.
This restaurant has indeed shown an amazing development: in recent years, a medieval customs house and a former wooden shack, which until recently was frequented by visitors from a nearby campsite, has grown into a fantastic fish restaurant with an excellent wine list . Culinary excellence and above all a wonderful location with tables directly overlooking the sea!
Sitting in the restaurant and forgetting the world is my pure luxury in life – whether at one of the tables right by the sea or in the glass-enclosed lounge. The menu varies according to the availability of locally produced products. A fact that speaks absolutely for the quality and of course for the sustainability of the production. Speaking of ecology: around the Locanda Rossa a fruit and vegetable garden has been planted, from which guests can help themselves. Baskets are available in the rooms.
I actually find it difficult to leave the Locanda Rossa and its beach. A real recommendation for a trip to the extreme south of Tuscany.
About the author: As a former grand hotelier and operator of a travel platform, Carsten K. Rath is a professional globetrotter. He travels to all the hotels he writes about for the Handelsblatt on his own account. Rath is the source of ideas for the ranking “The 101 best hotels in Germany”, whose partners include the Handelsblatt. The book on the ranking is available in bookshops.
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