Capella Bangkok and Chiva Som Hua Hin

As soon as I checked in, a cocoon of calm enveloped me in the middle of the bustling city of Bangkok. The omnipresent view of the majestic Chao Phraya River fascinates me from the very first moment. I experience first-class and, above all, warm-hearted service. From the concierge crew who greets guests at the entrance to the check-in team, everyone here is exceptionally welcoming, accommodating – and comfortably confident too. Director John Blanco sets the style here.

The Capella introduced resort style to a true city hotel in Bangkok, with a particular form of luxury: sophisticated, elegant, yet carefree. In addition, there is the intimate and somehow always cozy ambience – I feel like I’m in a luxurious living room.

I live in one of the seven private riverside villas, a Bangkok specialty. As I walk, I notice the highly polished marble floors and glittering chrome and crystal ceiling lights. In addition, there is furniture with fine fabrics and Asian antiques on every corner.

In my spacious riverside villa with a soothing design of gray and beige tones, I am once again amazed by the scenic river views. And my own private garden with pool and day bed right on the water. The travertine marble bathroom is bathed in sunlight and feels like a mini-spa with its walk-in rain shower and deep soaking tub.

I’m sitting in the rustic-chic dining room of the “Côte by Mauro Colagreco”. The Argentinian chef from the “Mirazur” in Nice, which has been awarded three Michelin stars, has transferred his Mediterranean flavored dishes to the Thai environment. I delight in his colorful, flower-speckled plates of prime seafood. Then in the evening: authentically romantic dinner on the river bank in the Thai restaurant “Phra Nakhon”. I like the local family recipes with their refined spiciness.

Breakfast consists of a small buffet with homemade pastries, fruit and Asian specialties, as well as an a la minute cooked-to-order breakfast menu. Especially the ricotta pancakes with roasted tomatoes on the vine will stay in my memory for a long time. Just like the high tea, by the way – better than in any traditional London grand hotel.

At night I lie outside in the garden, looking at the glittering Bangkok skyline and thinking: The Capella is the perfect urban oasis, always inspired by the soul of vibrant Bangkok life, here on the majestic river.

Rath’s travel rating (current rating in bold)

1. Explicit Travel Warning
2. Better than under the bridge
3. So-so, not oh, là, là
4. Complaining at a high level
5. If only it were always like this
6. Great cinema

Insider tips Bangkok

Jogging track: It’s best to run in Lumphini Park early in the morning, on a 2.5-kilometer path past lakes that reflect the surrounding skyscrapers.

Sightseeing: The largest temple in the world, the huge symmetrical temple complex of Wat Phra Dhammakaya – the golden dome consists of 300,000 small Buddha statues.

Cycle: Best on the river island Bang Krachao, which consists almost entirely of forest and jungle: Bangkok’s “green lung”. Cycling on well paved, quiet paths. A wonderful nature experience.

Chiva-Som: Oasis of Life in Hua Hin

I’m driving to Hua Hin, about three hours from Bangkok. My destination: the Chiva-Som, known as one of the best health and wellness retreats in the world. Chiva-Som comes from the ancient Indian language Sanskrit and means something like: oasis or harbor of life. Western healing methods have been successfully combined with Eastern philosophy here in the resort for more than 25 years.

Once upon a time, Chiva-Som was Asia’s premier wellness retreat, now boasting 54 rooms, suites and pavilions and pioneering programs. In 1993, the founder, Boonchu Rojanastien, tore down his Hua Hin beach holiday home to build a sanctuary that more people than just himself would be able to enjoy. The first resort officially opened in April 1995.

Originally intended as a weekend retreat from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok city, it has since welcomed family and friends to relax and enjoy healthy food before returning to work refreshed. He formulated his life motto very clearly: “Above all, enjoy your life.”

So he inspired today’s philosophy: combine effort with joy and adopt healthy, life-changing habits. His generosity soon spread to a wider circle of like-minded people. The Chiva-Som came into being.

I arrived at my sanctuary after the transfer from Bangkok, right by the sea in a 2.8 hectare tropical garden. The approximately eight kilometer long beach of Hua Hin is, for me, one of the most beautiful beaches on the Thai mainland. The sand is fine, soft and very white. You can walk here for hours without meeting anyone.

So now: I am ready for my revitalization of body, mind and soul. As soon as I enter the resort, an important appointment is due. In it, a program that is personally tailored to me, which is intended to promote my healthy lifestyle and fundamentally improve my quality of life, is discussed and planned.

Chiva-Som: Tropical oasis of life

I quickly learn: The Chiva-Som also relies on digital detox. Cell phones and cameras are not allowed in public areas. My experience begins with choosing my retreat, which will be further developed over the following days through daily changing activities and treatments. What fits best with my interests and habits? It is important to find my very own way to personal goals or health optimization. Ideally, a retreat at Chiva-Som should be “the beginning of a wellness journey full of focus, learning, achievement and self-discovery,” my therapist explains to me.

My room is great, more like a Thai pavilion, with a terrace and its own relaxation room, with large windows facing the resort jungle garden, whose soothing peace and deep energy I will not forget for a long time. The entire facility is warm, valuable and made entirely of natural materials.

The Chiva Som philosophy also applies – and especially – to nutrition. Getting to know healthy, nutritious and at the same time very tasty food is an important goal. I take part in training courses on nutrition with interest and an open mind. The approach: I should (and want) to maintain the level of well-being that I achieve in the resort with every hour and save it for the rest of my life.

The holistic approach and freedom of choice sets this resort apart from others. Nothing is forced. If you want to drink wine in the evening, you can of course get some. If you need coffee in the morning, no problem.

I like that very much. Bossing and boss announcements are taboo here. No classic renunciation. You rely on knowledge, personal responsibility, a basic discipline. Everyone can, nobody has to! While I’m not usually the type for extensive fitness testing and nutritional advice, the energy program here is undoubtedly beneficial and beneficial.

I participate in a variety of therapeutic treatments, including such seemingly exotic treatments as chakra balancing and Japanese Reiki therapy, which realigns currents in the body. I feel the gentle touches and all the energy here calming my nerves noticeably.

The absolute calm and contagious serenity in the past few days has also let me down and come to myself. A pleasant side effect: My scales show minus three kilos at the end – not bad for a week.

Rath’s travel rating (current rating in bold)

1. Explicit Travel Warning
2. Better than under the bridge
3. So-so, not oh, là, là
4. Complaining at a high level
5. If only it were always like this
6. Great (wellness) cinema

About the author: As a former grand hotelier and operator of the Travelgrand.ch travel platform, Carsten K. Rath is a professional globetrotter. He travels to all the hotels he writes about for the Handelsblatt on his own account. Rath is the brain behind the ranking “The 101 best hotels in Germany”, whose partners include the Handelsblatt.

Carsten K. Rath, Rolf Westermann: The 101 best hotels in Germany.
Institute for Service and Leadership Excellence AG
521 pages
34.90 euros
ISBN: 978-3033088719

Rath is also the author of the book on the ranking. The next edition of the book will be published with the cooperation of the Handelsblatt at the end of November as part of the publication of the next ranking of the 101 best hotels in Germany.

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