Rath checks in: luxury hotels in Oman

Authentic Orient far away from mass tourism, endless desert landscapes, green oases and unique experiences – if you want to vacation under these parameters, you cannot avoid Oman. So far, the country has been less talked about than other Arab destinations. But the country is all the more an insider tip that is worth discovering.

You will learn from me which first-class hotels and activities you should not miss, as well as the special orientation of “Switzerland” to the Arab world.

First-class service and well-being from the first moment. The majority of travelers who go to the tourist areas of the Middle East probably start with these expectations. I, too, went to the airport with these thoughts to start my hotel trip with Oman Air. And especially it was faster than expected – but in a slightly different sense. Because my passport was marked as “too worn” at check-in and was supposed to make entry impossible for me.

Hard to believe, because in the weeks before leaving Oman I traveled to Thailand, India and Australia with exactly this passport (it should be noted, of course, that it is valid) – everything without any problems. The descriptions of my thoroughly above-average travel activities and their background impressed the ground staff very little. Admittedly, I was stunned by this.

Luckily, my new passport, which I had already applied for in advance because my previous one was about to expire, was ready to be picked up by the authorities. So I was able to start a day later, but was left with the 700 euros for the rebooking costs. A bitter aftertaste at the start of the journey.

The Chedi Muscat – the capital’s number one sanctuary

My first destination is not far from the capital Muscat, which is surrounded by impressive cliffs. “The Chedi Muscat” is a member of the “Leading Hotels of The World” with a total of 162 rooms and suites and is already 20 years old. But the charming and, above all, well-kept patina does not detract from this resort. Already the arrival deserves the attribute “magic”.

The architecture of the complex with the idea of ​​a monastery convinces me across the board. A feeling of calm arises for me, above all, from the extensive gardens and a multitude of small oases, which find sufficient space with only 15 percent of the property being developed.

In the longest pool in the Middle East

The 103 meter long facility is stylishly embedded in a palm avenue.

(Photo: Carsten K. Rath)

I learned this from the training and development manager Khaula, who took the time to introduce me to all the facets of this unique sanctuary. At 27, with a bachelor’s degree and a total of four fluent languages ​​spoken, Khaula embodies the interplay of world-class education, hospitality and high-quality service. She also stands for the level of female leadership, which is openly focused and encouraged in liberal Oman.

Oman is also considered the “Switzerland” of the Arab world and mediates diplomatically, for example between Iran and Saudi Arabia, even if there are discussions and conflicts due to different religious orientations. This is largely due to the country’s social and political orientation, which was shaped by Sultan Qaboos bin Said, who died in 2020 after 50 years in power.

He was followed in 2020 by his cousin Haitham ibn Tari, who is considered a man of balance, advocates active tourism development, but at the same time shies away from excessive gigantism.

Carsten K. Rath as a guest in Oman: This gastronomy triggers enthusiasm

Back to my impressions from “The Chedi Muscat”. I swim my laps in the longest pool in the Middle East at 103 meters, which is stylishly embedded in a palm-lined avenue. For me it is definitely one of the most beautiful places in this complex, although two other pools provide variety. Here, too, as on the edge of all paths and oases, there are numerous palm trees – there are a total of 330 in total, I find out when I ask. My detour to the private beach section also turns into an impressive stroll through the palm trees.

Speaking of impressive: That is also the culinary selection during my stay, where I could choose between five different restaurants – all staffed by the best chefs.

A tennis match with Coach Easy from Nigeria

My food therefore deserves a high-class rating, just like my entire day so far. I also spent part of this in the spa. Located above the main pool, it includes adjacent 50 square meter spa suites. In one, the shower was already running for me to arrive, and the preheated neck pillow was waiting. All in all absolutely highly professional, at the same time with a personal touch and lovely in every detail.

By the way: In addition to relaxation, I was also looking for sporting activities and found them on the hotel’s own tennis courts. I particularly liked my match with coach “Easy” from Nigeria. He understands his craft and at the same time scores with his humorous nature.

My personal conclusion for “The Chedi Muscat” for the overall package from architecture to gastronomy to relaxation and activities, whether for a business trip or for private relaxation: six stars – nothing more to say.

Rath’s travel rating (current rating in bold)

1. Explicit Travel Warning
2. Better than under the bridge
3. So-so, not oh, là, là
4. Complaining at a high level
5. If only it were always like this
6. Great cinema

The Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar: Under German Direction

For me it continues with my driver Mashal (must remember!) from Zahara Tours, who as a local is the perfect contact person for all my questions about Oman, its people and the (for an Arab country) extraordinarily open and liberal culture. He takes me to the special hotspots of the country according to my wishes.

At this point it should be emphasized: I expressly recommend this type of travel! Because of the individual tour, which is available in Oman at fair prices, I benefit from much more unique impressions than with a group arrangement. A six to seven day round trip is my personal tip.

Nestled in Oman’s mountain range

The 33 villas and 82 rooms appear unobtrusively arranged on the extensive complex.

(Photo: Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort)

After a good two-hour drive we reach my next destination, the “Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar”. One of the highest luxury hotels in the world, this five-star resort is located at almost 2000 meters in the mountains of Oman. But is a stay here just as spectacular as the location? In any case, the view is breathtaking, which reminds me of Arizona with its silhouette, characterized by stone, rock and barren mountain green.

At the same time, however, the Anantara manages to pair the rocky ambience with newly created gardens with oriental charm. The contrast between the mountains and the green and flowery oases is particularly impressive when the roses are in bloom, when I visited the hotel.

Bike or climbing tour in the canyons

For me, walking through the Anantara feels like a relaxing stroll, because the 33 villas and 82 rooms appear unobtrusively arranged on the extensive complex. It seems to me that special and increased attention has been paid to the skillful combination and connection of all facilities, from restaurants to pools to the fully equipped gym with tennis court and the magnificent spa. The latter convinces me during my visit with energy-giving treatments, impressive size and authentic architecture typical of the country.

Another look beyond the Anantara borders: Those who travel to the mountains of Oman should take the opportunity for a bike or climbing tour in the canyons. For this purpose, guides were offered to me during my stay, who, as locals, are very familiar with the local conditions and respond to each guest individually.

A special kind of picnic

A terrace with a viewing platform where Lady Diana and Prince Charles have eaten.

(Photo: Carsten K Rath)

Whether after one of these tours, in between or with the classic meals: I was able to strengthen myself at any time during my visit without one of my wishes remaining unfulfilled. The great cuisine with “handmade buffets” from starters to desserts shines through perfection. For me, this definitely meets the requirements of a five-star hotel and rounds off the overall appearance of the Anantara, which is under the ambitious management of the German director Maren Kühl.

In the meantime, this high-class package can also be described as royal, because already in 1986 Lady Diana and the then Prince Charles were brought to this first-class hideaway to get to know Oman from its most impressive side. The place where the couple used to gaze into the distance now serves as a terrace with a viewing platform and invites you to an unforgettable picnic.

Despite all the luxury and comfort, two points of criticism remain: Many – in my opinion too many – cats are at home on the premises. According to the management, the guests are happy about this, but I also perceived it differently. And the language barrier can also be improved, due to the lack of linguistic know-how on the part of the staff, there are always small misunderstandings.

Rath’s travel rating (current rating in bold)

1. Explicit Travel Warning
2. Better than under the bridge
3. So-so, not oh, là, là
4. Complaining at a high level
5. If only it were always like this
6. Great cinema

Another highlight of a trip to Oman: A night in the desert is a must. My recommendation is the Arabian Nights Resort in the Wahiba Sands (also known as Rimal Al Wahiba). A desert oasis was created here from a nomad meeting point, which also offered me activities such as quad safaris and camel rides. Individual bungalows line the paths in the resort, which lead to a spa worth seeing. As a guest, I find it all cleverly designed and at the same time skilfully implemented.

Stop at the natural spectacle of the wadis

After these impressions in the middle of the desert, another stop at the wadis is worthwhile. My hotel recommendation at this point is the authentic Sama Ras al Jinz Ecolodge (three stars). This is where mountains, steppe and desert meet and let the landscapes “blur” into one another. I also took the opportunity to meet turtles, which are at home in the resort and can only be observed in a few places worldwide.

About the author: As a former grand hotelier and operator of the Travelgrand.ch travel platform, Carsten K. Rath is a professional globetrotter. He travels to all the hotels he writes about for the Handelsblatt on his own account. Rath is the brain behind the ranking “The 101 best hotels in Germany”, whose partners include the Handelsblatt. Rath is also the author of the book on the ranking, co-authored by Michael Raschke (Handelsblatt).

Carsten K. Rath, Michael Raschke: The 101 best hotels in Germany 2022/23.
Institute for Service and Leadership Excellence AG/Handelsblatt
594 pages
39.90 euros
ISBN: 978-3033094574

More: This is what makes the 101 best hotels in Germany so successful.

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