During my breakfast in the main restaurant of the Kronenhof in Pontresina with fresh fruit, warm, crispy croissants and hearty egg dishes, I have the feeling of dining in the Sistine Chapel. The ceilings are decorated with fine Renaissance paintings, the walls are covered with wallpaper, there are classical columns, frescoes, and magnificent chandeliers. All combined in perfect elegance.
As early as 1848, steaming horses pulled stagecoaches onto the farm, were rubbed down with straw and taken care of by the stable master. Meanwhile, respectable and shady figures alike dined over mugs of wine and bowls of roast pork. The Saracens riding from the south and crusaders from the north are said to have stayed here. The reason is the unique location. Today’s Kronenhof, at the beginning still “wine trade and pension Röslin”, was located on one of the most important trade routes that connected the Swiss country with Italy via the Alps.
The first tourists – mainly Britons – came to the pension as early as 1870. The landlady at the time is said to have determined the room prices based on the number of pieces of luggage. After a few changes of ownership, the Kulm Group took over the oldest house in 2004 together with the former shipowner family Niarchos.
And now I join the long guest list of the traditional house. I enjoy dinner in the “Stübl” – a gourmet restaurant in the Alps. A classic menu with two menus is served, praised with 16 Gault Millau points. The food is so excellent that I definitely recommend half board.
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The juice for tasty and intense sauces is extracted from the duck press.
(Photo: Kronenhof)
Controversial but delicious: the duck press
The duck press is a mechanical device that is used to squeeze out the skeleton and meat leftovers from small animals (such as ducks) after carving. This extracts the juice for tasty and intense sauces. Here in the Kronenhof, such a duck press is still used. The connoisseur can definitely taste the fine, aromatic difference.
The cuisine is brilliant, the service excellent. With my experiences from previous hotel stays and as a former hotelier, I feel that every employee here radiates authentic warmth. Family atmosphere and team spirit are lived and can be felt everywhere. Such a shared charisma has been built over generations and shows its authenticity through every single act.
In the Salon Fumoir I have the feeling that Dr. Watson would immediately sit down next to me in one of the comfortable leather armchairs, stroke his mustache, light a cigar, and immediately afterwards solve the upcoming case in a stimulating conversation with me.
Time to relax in comfortable leather armchairs.
(Photo: Kronenhof)
Of course, sport is beneficial after this great gourmet cuisine. I train my skating skills at the Bernina Sport cross-country ski school. This is easily accessible below the hotel. The school has first class new and modern winter sports equipment. The really cool Swedish ski school instructor Lars gives me a warm welcome and trains my technique with me. The prices are moderate. If you prefer alpine skiing to cross-country skiing, the hotel’s own shuttle will take you to St. Moritz free of charge.
The spa area is extremely impressive. Be sure to book a mix of massage and physical therapy with the Greek Jonis who is not only a masseur but also a fantastic therapist. For me it is a real miracle that I feel so completely energized and full of energy after the massage. I immediately book another unit for the next day.
After a sporty day outside, the pool, massages and physiotherapy await tired limbs.
(Photo: Kronenhof)
Crazy winter sport: snow polo
The snow polo world cup takes place every year in the neighboring town of St. Moritz. Six polo teams with players from nine nations maneuver their horses, whose hooves are specially prepared beforehand, safely over the ice. I think it’s great and sensible that, for traditional reasons, admission remains free for spectators. The area also offers many other opportunities to be active in sports – be it ice climbing, snowshoeing, ski marathons or surfing, kiting, biking and hiking in summer.
Showing candid sexual scenes in 1950s cinema was a no-go at the time. With the film “And eternally lures women” this border was torn down and Brigitte Bardot became a world star overnight. In order to win over the coveted lady, the famous playboy Gunter Sachs rained down 1000 red roses on her from a helicopter.
The plan worked. Bardot and Sachs married in 1966. Both spent a large part of their time enjoying, living and partying in St. Moritz, among other places. Along with a few other big names, they contributed to the high-class image, nobility and extroversion of the place. The marriage only lasted three and a half years, and the splendor of St. Moritz has been preserved to this day thanks to the commitment of Gunter Sachs.
Of course, this was very much due to the advertising drum that the prominent bon vivant knew how to beat – among other things as president of the bobsleigh club in St. Moritz, later as the creator of the legendary Dracula Club. This still exists today and is continued by his son, Rolf Sachs, who lives in the Olympiadorf in St. Moritz.
Luxury hotels in St Moritz
“To live in the Palace Hotel and to die in the Suvretta House”, something like that, the unexcited but stylish Hotel Suvretta House is smiled at, quite unjustly, by the exclusive party people from the Palace Hotel, where Gunter Sachs resided for many years. And, as always, there is a grain of truth to it. Then, when extravagant nightlife, party-mad exclusivity and extravagant self-indulgence set the standard for “life”. But a simple change of perspective casts the rather dignified Suvretta House in a completely different light. Down-to-earth enjoyment, simple but engaging elegance, genuine Swiss hospitality and inner contemplation allow a higher kind of enjoyment to unfold here.
The sister hotel of the Kronenhof is the oldest and most traditional hotel in the noble winter sports resort.
(Photo: Kulmhotel)
As the name suggests, the Kulmhotel is also operated by the Kulm Group and is the sister hotel of the Kronenhof, as well as the oldest and most traditional hotel in St. Moritz. Sports enthusiasts in particular descend here. The famous Cresta Bahn – an ice rink – is right next door.
My summary: life in Pontresina takes place with more peace, down-to-earthness and in a quieter form of relaxation. Each guest can enjoy their vacation in an undisturbed mode of privacy. Just like Chancellor Angela Merkel, who celebrated Christmas undisturbed for years in a certain three-star hotel. None of this was ever made public. If you are also looking for aesthetics, style, relaxation and culinary delights at a high level, you have come to the right place at the Kronenhof.
Normally I don’t like to name hotel prices because they are very dependent on the time of year. However, since one or the other reader might not take a closer look due to the strong Swiss franc, it should be mentioned at this point that the arrangements at the Kronenhof start from 375 Swiss francs per night in a single room and from 560 Swiss francs in a double room. However, this includes the excellent half-board and the ski pass.
About the author: As a former grand hotelier and operator of a travel platform, Carsten K. Rath is a professional globetrotter. He travels to all the hotels he writes about for the Handelsblatt on his own account. Rath is the brain behind the ranking “The 101 best hotels in Germany”, whose partners include the Handelsblatt. The book on the ranking is available here.
More: Ranking “The 101 best hotels in Germany” – Four Seasons Hamburg and Schloss Elmau together at the top