Rath checks in: hotels in Jordan

I start in the capital Amman and embark on a journey through time into the country’s past and on the traces of biblical stories. I highly recommend investing part of your travel budget in a driver and guide.

My German-speaking guide Jehad Johar from Pan East International Tourism DMC accompanied me for eight ideal days and made it possible for me to experience the historical wealth of the country so intensively in the first place.

My tip: Book the guides or guided day tours or a complete round trip from Pan East International Tourism DMC in Germany, for example via DERTOUR.

Centro Mada Amman by Rotana

Founded in Abu Dhabi, the Rotana Group now has more than 70 hotels in the Middle East and, in addition to five-star hotels, also runs a design brand. Like the Centro Mada in Amman, the other “Centro” hotels also have four stars. I was lucky to get a room because the hotel is always fully booked.

Although many guests come and go, at no time do I feel that the service is lacking. My junior suite, 56 square meters, costs 120 euros per night – including breakfast. I think that’s more than fair for the hotel’s facilities: the high-quality design of the rooms, the well-equipped and clean gym, and the rooftop pool with views over the city.

I am very impressed by the dishes in this hotel, the chef Achmal is also present outside the kitchen, introduces himself to the guests and, if requested, cooks one of his favorite dishes for me. The General Manager, Imad Akil, emphasizes the stay with his hospitality.

Day trips to Citadel Hill and Jerash

On the first day I visit the citadel hill in Amman (Jabal Al Qal’a) with my guide Jehad. From here I have a view over the capital and at the same time the historical treasures of the past are within reach. This location was already a strategically important point around 1300 BC, which has been used by different civilizations over the centuries. Where foreign religions and cultures meet, there is always conflict and sadness. These historical places in Jordan also radiate this for me.

In the seventh century AD, the Arabs conquered the region and introduced Islam. The Umayyad dynasty made Jordan a center of the Islamic empire and built magnificent palaces and mosques, including the impressive Qasr al-Abd, 20 kilometers west of Amman.

The city of Jerash, also known as Gerasa, takes me about 45 minutes from the hotel in Amman. It is one of the best preserved Roman cities. Those who travel here between mid-February and mid-May can admire the green landscape while driving. In Jordan, which is one of the three most arid countries in the world, you can see the ocher desert and gray cliffs outside of the recommended travel time.

According to the biblical tradition of Matthew the Evangelist, it is reported that John the Baptist baptized Jesus in the Jordan River. The exact location of Jesus’ baptism is disputed, but many believe it occurred on the east bank of the Jordan River. Near this area there is now a pilgrimage site called “Bethany Beyond the Jordan.”

The river that leads to the Dead Sea is also associated with the story of the prophet Elijah, who is said to have passed through heaven at this location. The pilgrimage site is therefore also of particular importance for Islam. In addition to the spiritual atmosphere, I am also impressed by the commercialism here. Believers travel in buses from all over the world to pray at this holy place or to be baptized. At a location of 400 meters below sea level, the other visitors probably also have to struggle with the pressure on their ears.

Mount Nebo and Dead Sea Spa Resort

On the way to the Dead Sea, I recommend you to make a detour to Mount Nebo. According to biblical tradition, Moses is said to have had his last glimpse of the “Promised Land” from this mountain before he died. At the foot of the mountain is the historic site of the fourth-century Church of Saint Moses.

I spend two nights at the Dead Sea Spa Resort. The right address for everyone who wants to spend a cheap holiday with their family. A highlight of the resort are the five pools. However, I find the quality of the food here to be average at best. The service is even worse. I order wine. I think 0.1 liters for the equivalent of seven euros is exaggerated. But the fact that only 0.05 liters are served and the bar manager tells me when I ask that this is the house’s “policy” is very unusual.

Fortunately, this behavior is not typical for Jordan. I have found the service in all other hotels and the locals to be very hospitable and communicative.

Dana Reservation and Guesthouse

The Dana Guesthouse is located around 200 kilometers south of Mount Nebo. Keeping it simple and easy, the focus here is on exploring the surrounding countryside. My tip: definitely book the “Deluxe” room. Even if this doesn’t have much to do with its name, I have the “luxury” of my own bathroom here. It doesn’t matter whether it’s after a two-hour or all-day hike through the Dana Reserve.

The Nabataeans, an Arab people who reached their peak of power in the fourth century BC, built the famous city of Petra, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Petra was an important trading center and a stunning example of advanced Nabatean architecture and engineering.

Although Little Petra is often thought of as Petra’s “little brother”, the town has its own charm and character. Here you will have more peace and quiet compared to Petra and you will find excellent accommodation nearby with The Old Village Hotel & Resort.

Rath’s travel rating (current rating in bold)

1. Explicit Travel Warning
2. Better than under the bridge
3. So-so, not oh, là, là
4. Complaining at a high level
5. If only it were always like this
6. Great cinema

insider tips

Visit cultural sites, respect customs and organize drinks: Jordan is a predominantly Muslim country and I think it’s important to respect local traditions and customs. Dress appropriately, especially when visiting religious sites, and respect the customs and traditions of the local people, who are extremely friendly.

Many hotels outside of Amman do not serve alcohol. If you like to drink wine or beer, I recommend buying it in the capital with foresight. My recommendation: 2021 Jordan River Classic, Sauvignon Blanc, Mafraq Plateau.

Wadi Rum Jeep Tour: The Wadi Rum desert in southern Jordan is an impressive nature reserve with unique rock formations and vast desert landscapes. You can experience the beauty of this spectacular desert landscape up close with a jeep tour, camel trip/ride or an overnight trip in a Bedouin camp.

Floating in the Dead Sea: Actually a lake, the Dead Sea is known for its salty water and healing properties. The unique experience of floating in the water has been proven to reduce stress. The minerals it contains are particularly beneficial for the skin and respiratory tract.

About the author: As a former grand hotelier and operator of the Travelgrand.ch travel platform, Carsten K. Rath is a professional globetrotter. He travels to all the hotels he writes about for the Handelsblatt on his own account.